By bicycle through the land of wine and history.
1200 km across the vineyards and orchards of South Moravia.
Vrbovec
About the willage
Vrbovec - In the centre of viticulture of the subregion of Znojmo
Records have it that by 1137, the forest-free, undulating agricultural countryside in the western part of the Jaroslavická Heights was home to a settlement whose oldest name (Vrbov) was derived from willows surrounding the area at the time (willow in Czech = vrba). Slavs, the first settlers in the area, were gradually forced out by German colonists from the area surrounding the Rhine – these are said to have introduced the grapevine into the territory. Historical records from the 14th century show that, by then, the settlement had been largely germanised, since the names of vine fields are in German. In the Middle Ages, Vrbovec was a seat of the district magistrate and boasted many rights and privileges. In 1709, the village was allowed to sell wines in taprooms and before the middle of the 18th century, construction of wine cellars began in the valley of the Vrbovecký brook. Today, Vrbovec is the largest wine settlement in the subregion of Znojmo. The vine area of the settlement is 450 hectares (if the defunct village of Ječmeniště and settlement Hnizdo are counted in). Nine vine fields, the most valued being Waldberg and Lampelberg, are planted with Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Müller-Thurgau.
About the wine-cellar lane
A preserved complex of single-storey pressing houses
The cellar colony in Vrbovec is the first wine colony on the way from Znojmo that is not located directly on the Moravian wine trail. The complex of 260 wine constructions is situated to the west of the village under the wine field Nad Sklepy, and is divided by a busy road leading to the border crossing Hatě. You can make the journey to this significant locality shorter and more enjoyable if you go along the dirt road between vineyards – to
get on this route, you have to pass directly by the cellars in Chvalovice and ride right across the brook Daníž heading north. The main wine trail turns eastward behind the cellars in Chvalovice and reaches Vrbovec through Chvalovice and Dyjákovičky. A valuable and remarkably well preserved complex of single-storey pressing houses in Vrbovec is made up of a one-sided lane dominated by the building of the Ampelos Company and terraced lines of cellars above the road. Single-storey pressing houses of rectangular layouts with gables oriented towards the street are separated by narrow lanes; the colours and the design of the fronts bring back the periods of their origin. The contrast of the smooth lime surfaces of the walls against the relief of protruding red bricks framing windows and the arch of the entrance make a purposef
ul and harmonious impression. The bare brick masonry also often accentuates corners and gables of the constructions. The doors of pressing houses from before World War II are specimens of craftsmanship, taste and graphic ingenuity. Many pressing houses still have openings for stowage in the lower section of their construction. The room under the saddleback roof with a hipped end was used for storing hay. Loading openings are closed with simple wood doors. Spacious pressing houses with beam ceilings, as a rule, are partly buried, so they are approached via a few descending steps. The area of up to 100 square metres secured comfortable handing of the massive beam press, which is still used by some vintners for pressing grapes. Deep and long cellar tunnels have been dug up in sandstone. Bricks of flat stones were used only for the vaulting.
Interest
The Grape She-Goat
As early as the time of the Greek god Dionysus, supernatural forces existed to protect viticulture, vineyards and vintners. Customs and festivities related to these deities belong to ancient traditions. The company of viticulture deities also undoubtedly includes the Southern Moravian Gra
pe She-Goat and Grape He-Goat. These names are a translation of German vernacular expressions Weinbagoass and Weinbabock, since viticulture in the subregions of Znojmo and Mikulov was almost exclusively in the hands of Germans. When they were forced to leave after the Second World War, the new settlers managed to continue to grow grapes and produce wines and pave the way for their present-day quality, but the traditional viticulture customs, superstitions, songs and legends disappeared along with their carriers. The legends concerning the Grape She-Goat were the inspiration for the constitution of the association Spolek Přátel Hroznové Kozy (The Association of the Grape She-Goat) – this association unites citizen striving for the renewal of old and forgotten viticultural traditions. In Vrbovec, a story took place that explains why the Grape She-Goat has a bald patch on the forehead – the story was narrated by Vrbovec native Hans Zuckriegel and recorded by Jiří Svoboda in his book "About the Tower of Znojmo". "The Grape She-Goat once noticed a young and handsome lad working in the vineyard. She knew he was single and about to marry, since he had recently been enga
ged to a young lady from Vrbovec. But perhaps she was bored or she wanted to put the lad to the test and so the dear She-Goat turned into a pretty girl and started working just a few steps from the prospective groom. Nobody really noticed her. The groom thought that his dad had hired a new hand and the people from the surrounding vineyards thought that she was the fiancée. So at the beginning, both of them minded their own work, but then the lassie started making sheep’s eyes at the lad every now and then, and he did notice that – after all everybody likes to have a look at a nice girl. Then she brushed against him lightly, as though by coincidence. The Grape She-Goat, on a whim, displayed all her seductive power and thus, by midday, the young pair was all smiles and laughs. One joke followed another, and both had a feeling they had known each other for a hundred years at least. And so they did not notice th
e cart that drove into the vineyard – there was a young frowning lady standing on it watching some young frump wooing her beloved who did not seem to mind it. Obviously that was the lad’s fiancée from Vrbovec. This does not mean much today but then the lads of Vrbovec were renowned as fearless fighters and the local girls also preferred action to long-winded discussions. In short, the young lady jumped down from the cart in the twinkling of an eye, laid into her rival, grabbed her by hair and pulled her along the vineyard. What she was shouting and what curses she made – let us let that pass without mention. Then she knocked her to the ground and ripped tufts of hair from her head. Then there was a flash and the strange lass under her hands was gone. The victor suddenly had in her hands tangles of goat’s hair instead of human ha
ir! Now it dawned on everybody who gathered there to watch the wonderful fight that the beaten girl really was – the Grape She-Goat! All of them started speculating and making judgements, saying that this should not have happened, that this would lead to something bad. In short, they scared each other and made bleak predictions. They thought that the Grape She-Goat was greatly offended and would take revenge on the young couple. But the groom said: "Why should she have revenge, when she is to blame." And so the marriage took place, babies were born, all of them beautiful, the harvests went well, and so did the vintages... and finally all learnt that the Grape She-Goat was not going to take any revenge. On the contrary, she had blessed the couple. The Grape She-Goat, that is to say, can be benevolent. Unlike most people. And the bald patch she has had on her forehead ever since – well, it suits her quite fine.“ Top
